Paliachora: The Ghost Town of the Saronic Gulf

Paliachora

Perched on a cliff in the inland of Aegina, frequently overshadowed by the shining glamour of the Agios Nektarios church and monastery (a renowned pilgrimage destination nearby), there lie the remains of Paliachora (*): the medieval town that acted as the capital of the island for almost 1000 years. The steep slopes of the hosting hill are dotted with 38 chapels – the only relics of a bygone era – their walls so perfectly camouflaged, blending with the colours of the background, that only their protruding shapes against the horizon betray their presence.

The hill of Paliachora from the road

Despite the site’s historical importance and the numerous road-signs along the way, Paliachora remains a hidden gem of unappreciated value, its churches crumbling to the ground under the weight of time and neglect. Recently, though, a series of private initiatives have placed the old town under their protective wings, restoring some of the chapels and preserving the old alleys, while creating a circular path that allows the visitor to explore both the mountain and the man-made treasures at one’s preferred pace. The trail is a bit longer than 1 km and, supposedly, it takes merely 40 minutes to walk through it. However, the beauty of the landscape and the charm of the churches are such that one should be prepared to linger much longer. I, for instance, spent almost two hours there, utterly enchanted by the discovery and, when forced to leave, I realised I had seen less than half of the temples.

Paths overtaken by nature

It was mid-March and, despite the cloudy weather that deprived us of the legendary blue of the Mediterranean Sea, Spring was in full swing, and lush vegetation had cheekily overtaken most of the pathway. With my friend, we crossed what we later labelled as the “chicory path” – regretting that we had not brought along a knife and a bag to collect some greens as we used to when we were younger, – the “wild-orchid path”, or the “forget-me-not path.” A spicy aroma, inherent in the Aeginean soil, was wafting in the air, and bouquets of stunning combinations sprouted at every turn, delaying further the progression of our exploration.

On the chicory path

On the wild-orchid path

Although Aegina had traditionally been a nautical power and its population had been concentrated, since the Bronze era, around its port, the hordes of pirates that kept plundering the island from the 9^th century onwards forced its citizens to move to the inland and found their new capital on a 355-meter-high hill whose geomorphic structure offered a natural fortification. It is also possible that Paliachora was built on the remains of the ancient settlement of Oia or Oii, and marble architectural members are scattered to this day among the Byzantine ruins – unexpected finds amidst an area that otherwise seems separated from the country’s ancient past.

Ancient marbles found among the Byzantine ruins

The city flourished during the Frankish, Venetian, and Ottoman period, following the various changes in the dominating forces that reigned upon the island taking successive control of its strategic location in the Saronic Gulf. In 1462, the town was further fortified with the money received by the Venetians in exchange for the skull of Agios Georgios (St. George) which had been initially brought by the Catalans from Livadeia (a city in the mainland of Greece), in an effort to keep it under the ownership of the royal house of Aragon. Forced by a storm (perceived to be the Saint’s reaction), the relics found refuge in the church of Agios Georgios in Paliachora (back then called Ano Chora, meaning “Upper Town”), until, in 1462, the Venetian Senate issued an order for their transfer to St. Giorgio Maggiore in Venice – a procedure that was not prevented by any miraculous intervention this time. In return, the Venetians paid 100 ducats to each Aeginetan to compensate for the psychological pain of their loss – a fund that was invested in the reinforcement of the city.

The cliffs on which Paliachora was built

At the beginning of the 16^th century, the island followed the ups and downs of the Venetian-Ottoman wars, sometimes turning into flotsam, other times, into a trophy. The town was raided in 1502 by the Turkish Admiral Kemal Reis who took control of the castle subjugating 2000 islanders and was destroyed in 1537 by the Ottoman admiral Hairedin Barbarossa who slaughtered all men of the island and dragged the Venetian governor, his entourage, and over 6000 women and children to the slave markets of the Orient. Although temporarily deserted, the town resurrected from its ashes and continued to be inhabited until the Greek Independence War and the subsequent formation of the modern Greek State in the 19^th century, at which time it was finally abandoned in favour of the coastline cities. Today, only the footsteps of solitary visitors echo on the cobbled alleys of the “necropolis of the Saronic Gulf,” while the lonesome, still-standing churches – that have turned the hill into an “insular Mystras” – reminisce the fame of the once-lively city. Everything else, including the military and residential sections, has almost entirely disappeared.

The chapels follow the basilica style, most of them being single-nave churches. However, there are a few twin basilicas with two sanctuaries and two entrances and only three domed basilicas in the shape of a free-standing cross. Aside from the differences in their formal architectural style, the churches offer an interesting variety of distinctive details, many of which were dictated by the peculiarities of the location, the creative preferences of the designers, and the needs of the congregation they were called to serve. As such, some temples are wedged against the rock, while others stand on the top of the hill; the altar of some is not oriented towards the east, and the entrance of others is not positioned on the west; finally, some (especially the twin basilicas) were serving  simultaneously two different Christian doctrines (Orthodox and Catholics), with the priests of the two denominations jointly holding a Mass.

Although I did not have the necessary time to pass by all the churches during my first visit to Paliachora, here are the few that bespeckled my path:

Panagia tou Giannouli (Virgin Mary of Giannoulis)

Panagia tou Giannouli

Although this church is severely dilapidated, it used to be one of the twin basilicas, half of which is now destroyed. It was dedicated to Virgin Mary, the Saint Apostles, and Saint Anna, and its name (of Giannoulis) probably derives from the family that owned it.

Agia Varvara (St Barbara)

The Agia Varvara church from above

An inscription with the date “1632” engraved in a fresco on one of the walls indicates that this church was built in the 16^th – 17^th century. Today it stands roofless, with a small, portable iconostasis filled with inexpensive icons at the corner of its yard, while the cella is overtaken by Nature that had formed a dense, verdant bedding.

Inside the church of Agia Varvara

Detail at the yard of the Agia Varvara Church

Agios Georgios Katholikos (also known as Panagia Foritissa)

Agios Georgios Katholikos (Panagia Foritissa)

The church, standing in Paliachora’s main square, was originally dedicated to the Assumption of Virgin Mary – hence the name Panagia Foritissa, meaning “Virgin Mary of the Forum”, i.e. “of the central square or market”. However, in 1393, its name changed to Agios Georgios when it became the new home for the Saint’s skull, once it was moved by the Catalans from Livadeia city. The addition “Katholikos” (meaning, Catholic) indicates that the church was used by the Roman Catholics.

An inscription above the main entrance refers to the visit of the Venetian Commander Antonio Barbaro in 1533, just four years before the city was turned into piles of rubble by Barbarossa. The urn that decorates the plaque was initially considered to be a Venetian emblem; however, it seems it was added by Barbarossa himself whose father was an urn-maker.

Barbaro’s visit was one of the many historical events that took place in the town’s square. The specific incident connected with the commander’s attempt to address the severe dissatisfaction caused by the Rector of Paliachora, his abuse of power and ongoing mismanagement. It is said that the locals gathered in the square shouting for justice and threatening to abandon the city if their (just and legal) demands were not met.

The church is adorned with beautiful murals, but, unfortunately, it was locked on the day of our visit – which, despite the initial disappointment, filled us with joy, as it was a sign of enhanced protection of the island’s Byzantine inheritance.

The inscription from the visit of the Venetian Commander Barbosa

Agia Anna

The view from the path on the way towards the Episkopi and the Agia Anna churches. The church of Agios Nektarios at the background

A bit further down from Agios Georgios Katholikos and before turning towards Episkopi, there is the small church of Agia Anna, one of its sides leaning against the rock of the hill. During our visit, the path leading there was covered in dense vegetation and, since the door of the church was closed, we decided not to trample the flowers but observe the cute structure from afar.

The Agia Anna church

Agia Anna from above, Agios Nektarios at the background

Agios Dionysios or Episkopi

Agios Dionysios or Episkopi

The church was initially dedicated to the Birth of the Virgin and acted as the Cathedral of Paliachora. It is one of the few domed, single-nave basilicas of the city and, it is said, its construction reflects three eras: the time of the Caopena family and the Catalan dominion; the Venetian dominance until the destruction by Barbarossa; and, finally, the Ottoman period, during which the presently-preserved frescoes were created. The dedication of the church to Agios Dionysios – who was the metropolitan bishop of Aegina during the period 1576-1579 – was made after his canonisation in 1703. This church was also locked on the day of our visit and, hence, our exploration was limited to the view from the roof and the examination of the small surrounding buildings that were used as monastic cells. Agios Dionysios lived for three years in one of them while he was still a prelate of Aegina.

The Episkopi church from the rooftop

Panorama of Aegina and the Saronic Gulf from the rooftop of the Episkopi church

The ascetic cell of Agios Dionysios

Inside the ascetic cell of Agios Dionysios

Taxiarhis (Archangel)

The Taxiarhis church from above

Even though we marvelled at this church only from above, it is admittedly one of the most beautiful in Paliachora and one of the rare few in the style of a domed basilica with the shape of a free-standing cross. It was most probably founded at the end of the 13^th century by Constantinos Bryenios – one of the important Byzantine families living or having connections with Aegina despite the Frankish occupation – and is adorned with some excellent frescoes which, however, we did not manage to admire this time.

Agioi Theodoroi

The Agioi Theodoroi church, Agios Nektarios at the background

This small church was the first one we found open, and we enjoyed exploring the beautiful – yet, badly faded – frescoes on the walls and arches. The iconostasis is built-in and white-washed, decorated with a few, modern-looking icons, while the apse of the sanctuary still bears traces of an old mural.

Detail, inside the Agioi Theodoroi Church

The built iconostasis of Agioi Theodoroi, with remains of old frescoes on the surrounding walls. The entrance door is not opposite the altar.

Detail of the frescoes in Agioi Theodoroi

Agia Makrina

The Agia Makrina church

Another chapel with a built temple and few traces of old frescoes. The arcades that support the two longer walls have stone benches at their lower sections for the worshippers.

Detail inside the Agia Makrina church with the stone benches at the bottom of the arcades

Iconostasis and altar of the Agia Makrina church

Agios Minas

The Agios Minas church

The strategic location of this church and small openings on its western wall suggest that it may have been used as a refuge or observation post against potential raiders.

Iconostasis of Agios Minas church

Agios Eleftherios

Agios Eleftherios church from above – panorama

It is the last church on the path before reaching the Castle and the twin churches of Agios Dimitrios and Agios Georgios on the top of the hill. It is interesting to observe how the door is not centred on the entrance wall, and how half of the roof is decorated with stones placed like tiles.

Agios Dimitrios and Agios Georgios of the Castle

Agios Dimitrios – Agios Georgios of the Castle church

The twin church dedicated to Agios Dimitrios and Agios Georgios stands on the top of the hill, next to the meagre remains of the acropolis – the old castle with its towers and cisterns – that protected the town on the slopes. It actually consisted of two churches, one Christian Orthodox and one Roman Catholic, that were connected only through their sanctuaries, the rest of the temples being distinct and separated.

The one sanctuary of the church, connecting with the second on the right

The second sanctuary, connecting with the first on the left

Panorama of Aegina from the Castle

Agios Stefanos

The Agios Stefanos church

The chapel has its sanctuary in a lateral arrangement, so, even though the apse is on the eastern wall and the entrance on the western, they look as if they have been misplaced since the altar is on one’s right hand instead of in front. The church was renovated at the beginning of the 20^th century with the support of Agios Nektarios – who, back then, had receded to monastic life in Aegina, performing many miracles, one of which was in the Agios Stefanos church itself.

The sanctuary of the Agios Stefanos church positioned on the long side of the chapel

Agios Georgios

The Agios Georgios church

A small church with the familiar, built-in iconostasis and some charming frescoes on the walls. Attracted by the murals on the apse, I entered for the first time in my life the sanctuary which, according to tradition, is accessible to all men but forbidden to women – a concept with which I obviously disagree. The church included a candle-stand painted in bright turquoise hues and a lectern in the same colour, with the story of St George bestowed on hand-written, laminated pages. Despite the inconsistency of the two elements with the rest of the ambience, their presence kindled an unexpected warmth that complemented the feeling of reverence that the whole trail had inspired.

Inside the Agios Georgios church

Beautiful fresco of the Virgin inside the sanctuary of the Agios Georgios church

(*) Paliachora translates into “old town” or “old capital town”, since the capital towns of most Greek islands are called, formally or informally, “chora”.

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