Review: Bairro Alto Hotel

Set the scene. The distinctive, primrose yellow exterior of the 18th-century building that houses the Bairro Alto Hotel has an impressive perch on the edge of Chiado’s landmark square, the Praça Luís de Camões, in one of Lisbon’s most sought-after neighborhoods. Its recent revival is rooted in the architectural heritage of the buildings, so the aim was to renew and refresh rather than to radically reinvent. There are smart terrazzo floors, a soothing palette of greys, greens, pink, rusts, and whites, and specially commissioned pieces from Portuguese artists like Vasco Araújo and Rui Chafes.

What’s the backstory? First opened in 2005, before Lisbon became one of Europe’s hot spots, Bairro Alto was arguably one of the city’s first boutique hotels. It reopened in 2019 following a three-year renovation. The original team reunited for the re-boot, which included the Pritzker Prize winner, Eduardo Souto de Moura, who was a regular guest in its previous incarnation.

What can we expect in our rooms? The hotel is larger and now spans four Pombal-era buildings, so no two rooms are the same. The original design team, Atelier Bastir, did the public spaces and guestrooms, and each one is an elegant assemblage of antique and contemporary furniture, thoughtful touches of tradition with glazed tiles, woven fabrics, rattan, ceramics, and art by Portuguese makers. Special mention goes to the soundproofed windows, which block out the rumble of the city’s yellow trams as they pass.

How about the food and drink? The fifth-floor BAHR with its open kitchen showcases his distinctive flavor combinations with plates like prawn rissoles (a Portuguese snack) as well as riffs on traditional dishes like pork with clams. Thanks to the stunning views, its adjoining bar and terrace is extremely popular with locals who crowd in. Fortunately, only hotel residents can use the sixth-floor bar, a secret spot where blue skies stretch out over the rooftops to the River Tagus. There’s also an in-house, ground floor Pastelaria with tea, coffee, the obligatory pastéis de nata and savory pastries. The hidden-away Mezzanine Bar serves an all-day menu and cocktails; the 18.68 cocktail bar with small plates promises to open soon.

What’s the crowd like? Weekending couples and some families from both sides of the Atlantic, although there are no especially child-friendly corners.

Anything to say about the service? Many of the original staff, like the welcoming doorman, Rui Jose, were re-employed after reopening and are obviously delighted to be back. There’s also a useful guide to Lisbon with some genuinely off-radar suggestions.

__What's the neighborhood scene like? __ Bairro Alto Hotel sits on the boundary of two of Lisbon’s most captivating districts, Chiado and Bairro Alto, with their steeply, sloping cobblestone streets and intriguing nooks and crannies, so you’ll never be stuck for something to see, a place to eat, or a boutique to browse. It’s a steep stroll down the hill to the banks of the River Tagus.

__Anything you would change? __ Even with its on-trend Susanne Kaufmann spa, the wellness center, which also includes a gym, still feels like a bit of an afterthought.

Is it worth it? The hotel's upgrade, along with its history, gives it plenty of personality, but it’s the location that will always keep this property current.