Review: W Costa Navarino

Why book?

To discover the sweeping Ionian coast without the shrills of young children—this is the first adults-only offering (they do allow children over 12) from family-friendly resort Costa Navarino and the first W hotel in Greece. It manages to fuse fun (a poolside DJ) with wellness (a roster of fitness classes and an impressive spa) alongside eco-conscious design accompanied by a gallery-like collection of work from upcoming Greek artists gracing the natural stone walls. History buffs can seek out Messinian ruins and hikers will be drawn to the perfumed hill trails. Inclusivity is at the forefront of its core values, from hair and skin products for all ethnicities to gender-neutral loos and an LGBTQ+ ambassador.

Set the scene

A chug through Messinia’s olive-dotted countryside, past bare-chested octogenarians driving ancient tractors, brings you to the 13-hectare waterfront site, designed in the form of a Greek coastal village. It is located a 10-minute drive from the main Costa Navarino resort, next to the forthcoming Mandarin Oriental (opening this summer), with a shop, cinema, and restaurant-filled “agora” connecting the two. Replete with local materials, such as stone repurposed from the land where Costa Navarino’s golf courses were created, the muted palette cast by Greek architects Tombazis and Associates in wood, rock, and reed blends softly into the lavender-, jasmine-, and oleander-packed landscaped gardens. The soaring atrium is filled with specially commissioned art, overseen by visual curator Poka-Yio and founder of the Athens Biennale, who commissioned students of the Athens School of Fine Arts. One piece is constructed of clay Linear B tablets recast as mobile phone chat bubbles, a meditation on the changing face of language and communication.

The store, next to the reception, plots Greek contemporary art books alongside bespoke lilium and sea salt candles and jaunty fruit-strewn sandals by Sibylla Delphica. While the destination’s other hotels have been more about golf and family, this is seeking out a different, cooler audience to the region from its electro house tunes at sunset spun by Ukrainian DJ Rie Kiriiaka to its new vegetarian beachside restaurant, Green Pepper, and loom-woven dresses with patterns inspired by 70s art from its Ergon Amphora store, a Mykonos import focused on sustainable fashion.

The backstory

Costa Navarino’s owner Captain Vassilis Constantakopoulos had one mission: to put his beautiful Messinia on the map. Until he built the first hotel (the development will ultimately comprise five resorts) in 2010 under the banner of his company, Temes, the area was relatively unknown. Using his funds from a successful shipping career, the first area to open, Navarino Dunes, comprises the family-focused Romanos and Westin resorts, an Anazoe spa and residences alongside an 18-hole golf course. The Navarino Waterfront is made up of W; while at nearby Navarino Bay, there is an 18-hole golf course and the Mandarin Oriental (opening later this summer). A further area, Navarino Hills opened last year with two more golf courses. A tour around the development reveals snazzy private residences (these have access to the resorts’ facilities). Located 45 minutes from Kalamata, it is also within easy reach of Athens—a 2.5-hour drive.

Rooms

In line with the rather chummy W vernacular (staff quarters are labeled “Talent”), there are 246 Fabulous, Spectacular, and Wow! rooms, suites, and villas spread throughout the property. We loved the infinity swim-up room, with access to a shared ground-level 90-meter pool—ideal for an early morning dip. They are all decked out in similar aesthetics by London-based MKV Design, with a focus on calm neutrals and bespoke furniture, such as the chequered headboard, shaped from bamboo. A mid-century chair (which is a nod to Messinian saddlery artisanship), taupe drapes, and geometric cushions give it a modernist vibe. Commissions include jugs in the form of ancient amphora and rattan lights paying homage to the region’s culture of basket weaving. Bathrooms are spacious, with textured walls. Suites come with private pools and artworks such as Nafsika Keke’s photographs depicting a surrealist waterworld and Dania Kotsaki’s bespoke bamboo wall hangings.

Food and drink

The dining areas are located around the hotel’s infinity pool, forming the focal point of the resort. The Platía is a spin on the traditional Greek food market with four different rooms connected by a jasmine-covered pergola. The breakfast is a joyful exploration of the healthy—salad bowls piled high with glistening oil-slicked tomatoes, local Kalamata olives, and mounds of jewel-like pomegranate - and the bikini-busting. The bakery is a test of willpower, the day beginning with a  wedge of cheese and filo pie and a slice of their delicious honey cake. Lunchtimes are more abstemious with avocado and tuna packed poke bowls and watermelon salad at the W lounge. Head to the vibey beachside Parelía for riffs on Greek classics. The café features a centerpiece display of slow drip coffee machines worthy of any Dalston roastery. There are five different alternative milks (including pea) and gluten-free breakfast goods from Gea bakery, a Greek brand.

The spa

The Away Spa is light and airy, with another thought-provoking artwork—a sculpture made from towels to mimic ancient relief. The detox massage worked deep into the hiking aches. Ready for an Instagram-ready crowd (their spa guide urges you to “get camera ready”), there are shellac manis and pedis on offer, plus make-up and blow dries alongside some more tailor-made treatments such as golf massages, a scrub with local honey, and aloe facials.

Fitness is forefront here, from the complimentary core classes to the slick new Technogym equipment. This draws a fitness and wellness-centric crowd—the well-populated outdoor gym was an inspiration to us sun worshippers. There is also a 25-meter lap pool (the beautiful infinity pool is more for posing here) and four tennis courts. Although not open during my stay, a new watersports hub will open offering windsurfing, water-skiing, and kayaking.

The neighborhood

Its beauty drew Patrick Leigh Fermor, who lived in the pretty castellated village of Kardamyli, and Bruce Chatwin, who asked for his ashes to be scattered here. Seeped in history, Messinia is rich with classical temples, Byzantine churches, and craggy medieval castles (a stomp up to the ruins at Pylos is a must, for the breathtaking 360-degree views). With Olympia, Mystras, and the Palace of Nestor in easy reach, you can pepper your tan and flop days with pedagogic jaunts seeking out the region’s history. For those going in shoulder seasons, when the weather is cooler, try out the hikes such as to the Kalamaris waterfall—listen out for chirruping frogs—and coastal bike rides with a dip in the famous horseshoe beach at Voidokilia.

The service

Like clockwork, from the super slick housekeeping who came after breakfast every day to the charming and chatty serving staff. Like the other hotels in the collection, there is a true sense of warmth at the heart of the hotel from the 350 staff—even though it is a big brand hotel, ultimately this is a family-run business, and that hospitable embrace is felt throughout.

Who comes here?

Hip holidaying friends, those who don’t want to share their trip with babies’ howls, and golfers looking for an element of cool (guests have access to all the facilities at the other Costa Navarino hotels such as golf courses and the Mouratoglou tennis academy).

For families

Only children 12 years and over are permitted. The new water sports center will be a hit with the teen contingent, but there isn’t much in the way of local nightlife for those seeking a party scene.

Eco effort

Good. No single-use plastic, and planted roofs with local herbs for minimum watering provide natural insulation from the heat. It is home to the biggest olive tree transplanting program in Europe and is focused on protecting fauna, too—they are partnering with NGOs to protect the only species of African Chameleon found in Europe at its Giolava Lagoon—as well as sheltering 271 of the 441 recorded bird species in Greece. There is a pledge to be carbon neutral by 2030.

Accessibility for those with mobility impairments

Excellent. There are five wheelchair-accessible rooms, ramps, and a concierge desk 36 inches high so it is accessible to those in wheelchairs. There are also rooms with Braille numbering and lettering, as well as alt text used in social media so that the visually impaired can read it. For Deaf guests, there are strobe fire alarms; and for autism spectrum guests, weighted blankets and non-fluoro lighting.

Is it worth it?

Yes, you can extract from it what you will—wellness, a bit of a party vibe, art, culture, golf (if you like), and heritage—and unlike a lot of Greek island resorts, it is very easy to get to via Athens (and cheaper too, because of the plentiful flights there).