February 22, 2020

Eat, Drink, See: Chiado & Bairro Alto, Lisbon

February 22, 2020/ William Lounsbury

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER J.E. BRADLEY • NIKON D500 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 56MM • Ƒ/8 • 1/500 • ISO 100

Anyone who has had the pleasure to visit Portugal's capital are sure to remember one thing beyond all others. It’s not the food, although the plates of fish you can find are second to none. Nor is it the glasses (or bottles) of Vinho Verde, Portuguese ‘green’ wine you consumed. More than anything else, it is the hills. To visit Lisbon is to exhaust your legs and exercise your knees. To climb any one of the city's many hills tends to require a break partway through and this where the city’s unmatched ability to prepare fish and wine comes into play.

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER J.E. BRADLEY • NIKON D500 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 31MM • Ƒ/2.8 • 1/60 • ISO 1600

PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 35MM Ƒ/1.4G ED @ 35MM • Ƒ/3.5 • 1/100 • ISO 100

PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 35MM Ƒ/1.4G ED @ 35MM • Ƒ/2 • 1/500 • ISO 100

PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 35MM Ƒ/1.4G ED @ 35MM • Ƒ/8 • 1/125 • ISO 400

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER J.E. BRADLEY • NIKON D500 • AF-S NIKKOR 14-24MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 14MM • Ƒ/8 • 1/125 • ISO 100

Today on Eat, Drink, See I climb the hill through Lisbon’s lively western slope. As we ascend the hill, through the twin neighbourhoods of Chiado and Bairro Alto, we will eat, drink and see as often as we can. These hills require breaks, and Lisbon is happy to provide delicious and unique options.

SEE: Ascensor da Bica

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER J.E. BRADLEY • NIKON D500 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 24MM • Ƒ/8 • 1/125 • ISO 100

PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 66MM • Ƒ/8 • 1/1320 • ISO 200

Before we have even taken our first step up from sea level, we get to see one of Lisbon’s most iconic sites, the Ascensor da Bica. As a way to cope with the aggressively steep hills on which the city is built, several elevators or funicular’s were constructed to save the residents the arduous hike. Allowing you to skip through most of Chiado, the Ascensor da Bica takes riders on the short (but steep) climb from Sāo Paulo Street up to Calhariz Square at the beginning of Bairro Alto. This funicular has been in operation since 1892 and provides spectacular views towards the river as you ride the slanted car up to the top. However, we recommend skipping those views and giving your legs a workout. Shooting down some of the narrow streets of Chiado will provide you with a peek at the Ascensor as it climbs the hill. We like a shot from Rua Mal. Saldanha, but the classic from up top looking down is always a good decision.

There are two cars which make up the Ascensor da Bica. At night, one car sits at the top of the hill on the street, while its sister rests at the bottom, safely locked in a building. Because of this, the car that sits at the bottom is yellow, clean and beautiful; while the car which stays at the top is a canvas for Lisbon’s graffiti taggers. For your photographing pleasure, we recommend waiting for the bottom car.

Ascensor da Bica

Rua de S. Paulo 234, Lisbon
Approx. every 15 minutes
Mon-Sat 07h00 until 21h00
Sun & Holidays 09h00 until 21h00
2.90€ onboard, or 1.45€ with the Viva Viagem Card or Lisboa Card

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER J.E. BRADLEY • NIKON D500 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 24MM • Ƒ/5.6 • 1/200 • ISO 100

EAT: Toma Lá Dá Cá

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER J.E. BRADLEY • NIKON D500 • AF-S NIKKOR 14-24MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 24MM • Ƒ/8 • 1/125 • ISO 100

Once you’ve ridden the Ascensor up to Largo Calhariz, you are probably ready for a break (and a bit hungry). As difficult as it might be, go back down the hill one block to find one of my favourite whole in the walls in Lisbon, Toma Lá Dá Cá. Toma Lá Dá Cá, like all great eateries in Lisbon, is non-descript and downright boring to look at. Nothing in this place says fine dining and in Berlin, London or Amsterdam these would all be red flags about the quality, in Lisbon, these qualities scream delicious fish. The plates are large with generous side servings of your essential vegetable mixes. The vegetables are surprisingly good, but they are not the reason you have come here. The short fish menu serves Portuguese classics at a price you cannot argue with (all are around 10€). When I went, we were the only non-Portuguese diners, in case you needed more of an argument for its quality. Enjoy your fish and have a second glass because there is a lot more hill to climb as we are just starting with Barrio Alto.

Toma Lá Dá Cá

Tv. do Sequeiro 38, Lisbon
12:00 - 15h00 and 19h30 - 23h00
Closed Sundays

PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 66MM • Ƒ/3.5 • 1/160 • ISO 400

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER J.E. BRADLEY • NIKON D500 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 27MM • Ƒ/8 • 1/60 • ISO 200

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER J.E. BRADLEY • NIKON D500 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 52MM • Ƒ/4 • 1/160 • ISO 800

DRINK: Pavilhão Chinês

PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 35MM Ƒ/1.4G ED @ 35MM • Ƒ/1.4 • 1/30 • ISO 1600

Since you have finished lunch, you will be re-energized to take on Barrio Alto. This neighborhood is the merry heart of Lisbon… but it is also one big hill. At night it is rowdy with locals and tourists, eating drinking and making merriment, but during the day it is an old school neighborhood with narrow streets and an eclectic mix of building. Getting lost in the streets is easy enough to happen by accident (and an excellent way to spend your day), but if you have intense thirst and an eye for the eccentric, it is time to finish your hike and rest for a drink at the top of the hill inside the famous Pavilhão Chinês. The Chinese Pavilion (the English translation of the bar’s name) began its life as a large grocery store, but when the owner of an exceedingly large collection of antiques, toys, and collectibles needed a place to house them he needed a space large enough to do the job. With that, the Pavilhão Chinês was born. Spread across five large rooms, stuffed to the brim, one can lose hours looking at the toy soldiers, model planes, collectors cups, figurines, etc., etc. It’s not just the visitors who get lost in these walls; I caught at least a couple of the bartenders losing track of tables while inspecting the walls. The waiters are part of the joy of the place as well. Wearing a blue waistcoat they, like the figurines, seem to be from another time. My favorite room was the billiards room at the end of the winding bar. I can not remember the last time I played a game… and it showed. I was terrible, but with an old fashion in hand, I felt I was still winning.

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER J.E. BRADLEY • NIKON D500 • AF-S NIKKOR 24-70MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 56MM • Ƒ/8 • 1/30 • ISO 1600

Pavilhão Chinês

Rua Dom Pedro V 89, Lisbon
Mon - Sat 18h00 - 02h00
Sun 21h00 - 02h00

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER J.E. BRADLEY • NIKON D500 • AF-S NIKKOR 14-24MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 16MM • Ƒ/2.8 • 1/60 • ISO 1600

Now that you have climbed through the neighbourhoods and had your drink as a reward, step outside the bar and rush down the street to catch the sunset at the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. This beautiful park is sure to be filled with musicians and lovers looking to catch the last light. A day in Lisbon is never complete without enjoying the city from on high, and this is an excellent Miradouro for it. Take a look across the city and pick another hill. That will be tomorrow’s journey.

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEXANDER J.E. BRADLEY • NIKON D500 • AF-S NIKKOR 70-200MM Ƒ/2.8G ED @ 86MM • Ƒ/16 • 1/250 • ISO 100

PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM LOUNSBURY • NIKON D800 • AF-S NIKKOR 35MM Ƒ/1.4G ED @ 35MM • Ƒ/8 • 1/400 • ISO 200

Author: William Lounsbury

William is a photographer in Amsterdam and Paris with Aperture Tours: professional photography guided tours, designed to help you get the best out of your camera whilst exploring wonderful cities with a local. A professional photographer specialising in photojournalism, William enjoys to get off the beaten track and shoot spontaneous moments as they are presented to him.

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